Across the Red River and into Bac Ninh province lies one of the most pleasant short loops from Hanoi: But Thap, northern Vietnam’s most completely preserved ancient pagoda complex, and Phu Lang, the less-touristy pottery village that locals rate above Bat Trang for atmosphere. Both sit in the Thuan Thanh craft-and-heritage belt roughly 30–45 kilometres from the city.
The loop out
Cross to the east bank (Chuong Duong or the newer cable-stayed bridges) and follow the Duong River corridor northeast. Two riding styles work: the fast line straight out the Bac Ninh highway, or the slower, better dyke-top road that shadows the Duong toward Thuan Thanh — flat, green and lightly trafficked. Count 45 minutes to an hour to the pagoda area.
But Thap Pagoda
But Thap (Ninh Phuc Tu) is the high point of the trip: a 17th-century complex of courtyards, towers and a celebrated thousand-eyed, thousand-armed Guanyin statue, all set beside the Duong dyke. It is calm, shaded and architectural in a way few Vietnamese pagodas are — arrive early and you may have the courtyards to yourself. Modest dress applies; a small entry fee is charged.
Phu Lang pottery village
From But Thap, loop south to Phu Lang on the east bank of the Cau River. Phu Lang is the ceramic village with the terracotta aesthetic — rustic, wood-fired glazes rather than Bat Trang’s celadons — and it receives a fraction of the visitors. Watch kilns and wheels in the village lanes, buy directly from family workshops, and wrap purchases well for the ride home (the carrying-luggage guide is worth reading before you shop). Lunch of Bac Ninh-style spring rolls in the village rounds out the day.
Practical notes
- The loop rides as a half day at a brisk pace, a relaxed full day with lunch and shopping.
- Dyke-road surfaces vary after rain — the standard caution applies.
- The return crossing into Hanoi is busiest from late afternoon; earlier is calmer.
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